Got up early and jogged/walked for about an hour in the farmland around Monteux, saw many horses, and stopped for croissants at a new patiserrie in town that we’ve wanted to try. When I walked in the shop was insanely hot, very bare bones in terms of decoration, but the bread and pastry looked very good.
It’s another scorcher of a day already so Nancy decided to stay at camp while Jim and I got a late start for market day in L’Isle sur la Sorgue. The town is famous for its established antique shops. On Sundays the shops are open and the center of town is taken over by a vibrant outdoor brocante market (less high end antiques, collectibles, etc.) and a huge Provencal market (food of all kinds, flowers, fabric, clothes, etc.). So basically you can find just about anything all in one place.
We arrived around 11:30 and found free parking right next to the train station. There’s an antique fabric shop and warehouse right near the station that is one of Nancy’s favorites; when we drove through town earlier in the week and saw it closed, she feared it was out of business. Well they were open today -- turns out they are only open on weekends – so we had a look around and I bought a brightly colored skirt in a lovely soft cotton. The shop owners were very sweet and we had a nice chat.
Jim and I proceeded directly to get reservations for a late lunch at Le Jardin du Quai, an excellent restaurant that we’ve all been to before. They have a huge outdoor garden and excellent food, usually with a set menu. We were able to get a 2:00 reservation thankfully, which gave us lots of time to explore the market.
We split up to explore different parts of the market, since I wanted to check out antiques especially. I had found information online about a reasonably priced antique shop but after asking around I found out that the shop owner died a few years ago and the shop is out of business. So I had a look around the shops, most of which were way beyond my price point but still fun to explore. Saw some insanely beautiful and expensive antique pottery and many other beautiful objects that made me wish I could spend much money on shipping! I did find two very good brocante shops and bought a food mill, a tea infuser, and a small red enameled steel pot, all French dating from the 1930s or 1940s. Got a big container of wildflower honey as well.
Lunch was good but the restaurant was packed and service was brusk – definitely had better serive off season. Le menu: vegetable terrine with poached egg and fresh basil; sea bass with white beans and summer vegetables; parfait of apricot and crème with pistachio, all with a very nice rose wine.
Got back to camp around 4:30 and it was unbelievably hot until around 7:30. Bruno the campground manager and his wife had their baby the other day so he had a drinks and munchies celebration outside in the campground with about 30% campers he invited and the rest his friends. A very casual working class celebration and definitely an experience. I chatted quite a bit with a Dutch couple (she speaks okay English) and a British couple with an adorable and sweet tiny Jack Russel terrier named Lola who I would bring home if I could – they asked me if I was American or Canadian :-)
Several groups of Irish gypsies moved in this afternoon, not the best of developments since they tend to not be very respectful of fellow campers. We are here until Tuesday or possible Wednesday morning so Jim can get his new glasses, but at latest we will leave to head North to Brittany by Wednesday possibly Tuesday.
Had a nice light dinner of salad and cheese with fabulous read form market, as well as fruit. Gave some of the cut fruit to our neighbor Maurice who has been giving us melons several times – I was very proud I got all the vocabulary for cherries, strawberries, peaches, yogurt and honey so I could explain to him what it was :-)
Off to a small hill town tomorrow – Jim and Nancy researching as I type in the dark (it’s almost 11pm). Hoping to finish soon so I can read more of the Lincoln book – it is excellent.
Photos from the market here. Bon nuit.
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